Panel Lines - Gundam "black lines"
Over time I've received e-mails regarding how I do my Gundam lines.
Below is one of my replies.
Howdy,
Thanks for the email! This is a common question, the technique itself
is fairly simple but it does take time. It's called black washing. This
is how I do it:
I use a water based acrylic artist/painting oil. I put a dab or two of
the paint into a small bottle or something to hold it then I add water,
resulting in "dirty water". With the dirty water or black wash I take
a brush and go over the lines and let the water filter into the panel
lines. I then take a tissue paper and wipe away excess. I do this a few
times over a small period, letting it dry between applications, the paint
builds up rather quickly. NOTE - Prior to black washing I coat the model is
a transparent semi-gloss coat of clear paint or sealer, I use Future
floor was for this clear coat application. The clear coat allows the black
wash to go on smoothly and also it makes it easier to wipe off. In fact,
even after the black wash has cured it can still be removed
with damp tissue paper and a little rubbing pressure. This is good
because it allows for sloppiness. I can come back in a hour or two
after its dried and remove the wash that has escaped the panel lines
quite easily.
Hope that helps if you have any questions let me know.
I've only seen and read about Mr. Surfacer in Hobby Japan but have never
had the opportunity to use it, sorry...
-Tom
>To: ttt@apc.net
>Subject: Need some painting advices
>Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1970 08:00:00 +0000
>
>Hi,
>
<snip>
>
>1. I saw on the cover box of the Gundam models and found that the models
>is painted very very nice. Well, I'm able to paint the models but
>however, I can't, even once succeed in painting the black fine lines of
>the model. This is so difficult and often spoils the model. I tried
>using a very fine brush but the lines are so thin, less than a
>millimetre, when I paint it, it just smurge out of the lines. I can't
>make a perfect black straight lines in the groove of the model. May I
>know from you how this can be done.
>
<snip>
Thinning/mixing ratios
I have received several emails asking about how much I thin or dilute the paint for airbrushing. I
typically start the ration at 1:1 (paint:thinner), then work from there.
If you paint your kits don't forget to sand off a little of the edges
that surround the joint areas, otherwise you'll get paint scraped
off as soon as you start posing your kits. The is especially
true for gundam type kits that have elbow and knee joints.
When building snap-together kits, specifically the Bandai Gundam kits,
remove or trim down the pegs that hold the model pieces together.
If you are securing the model pieces with glue these pegs are not
neccessary and often create a gap between the two pieces you are
connecting.
Nevin has done a great job explaining basic modeling techniques.
Why re-write what he has already done? :)
* Nevolution -- Model Making
* The Model Citizen
has some really great information on Battle Damage and Weathering with Pastels. Check out his
* Sprue University
section for details.
* rec.models.scale FAQ
The huge (it's nicely arranged over several pages) and information packed FAQ from the rec.mode.scale newsgroup. Notable sections
include: Resin Kits - part 12, weathering tips - part 15, and painting tips - part 17. Great information for
beginning modelers and those that are looking for some new tips.
Stripping Chrome Plate/Coating
Chlorine bleach. Soak the parts in a diluted bleach solution and the
chrome will just disintegrate. Use Chlorine based bleach and soak the
offending parts for about 1-2 hours. The has always worked for me. Make
sure to do this in a well ventilated area.
Getting rid of a bad paint job - Stripping Acrylic Paint
Easy-off Oven Cleaner. Spray the model with oven cleaner, let it site
for a bit, then scrub away with an old tooth brush. Make sure to do this in a
well ventilated area and wear gloves, the first time I did this I didn't wear
any protection and boy my hands got irritated and itchy!