G a l a x y  M e c h  W o r k s


General Advice

I wasn't really sure as to what tips to provide until it came time to start posting this site with search engines and the Pike.

So, I briefly thought - "What has helped me the most?"

Scale military models are how I got into this hobby as a kid and so I have always vbeen one for realism. I try to build my kits as realistically as possible. I like a some weathering, zero (or as close as I can get) seam lines and a nice paint job. I've also learned that the best thing to do for a model is to place it on a base with some sort of setting - I've done this twice and it make a tremendous difference. The setting doesn't need to be too fancy. It serves only to help place the model in a place and time - giving the viewer an a better vision of what the kit would be like in real-life 3D.

Anyhow, that's it for know. . .so here's three things that I recommend to get you on the way to building better mecha kits.
  1. Sand, Sand, and then sand some more - when not taken care of properly seam lines really detract from a kit. It's tedious and not very fun but well worth the effort - you'll be thankful once that first coat of paint hits a nicely sanded surface.


  2. Buy/borrow/get an airbrush - yeah sure sometimes you can get away without one, but this is the tool to invest in.


  3. The more kits you build the better you'll get. I often look over my first mechs just to nit-pick on how I could have done a better job on them.

Quick Tips/Help Links

  • Panel Lines - Gundam "black lines"
    Over time I've received e-mails regarding how I do my Gundam lines. Below is one of my replies.

    Howdy,
    
    Thanks for the email!  This is a common question, the technique itself
    is fairly simple but it does take time.  It's called black washing.  This 
    is how I do it:
    
    I use a water based acrylic artist/painting oil.  I put a dab or two of 
    the paint into a small bottle or something to hold it then I add water, 
    resulting in "dirty water". With the dirty water or black wash I take 
    a brush and go over the lines and let the water filter into the panel 
    lines. I then take a tissue paper and wipe away excess.  I do this a few 
    times over a small period, letting it dry between applications, the paint
    builds up rather quickly.  NOTE - Prior to black washing I coat the model is 
    a transparent semi-gloss coat of clear paint or sealer, I use Future 
    floor was for this clear coat application. The clear coat allows the black 
    wash to go on smoothly and also it makes it easier to wipe off. In fact, 
    even after the black wash has cured it can still be removed 
    with damp tissue paper and a little rubbing pressure.  This is good 
    because it allows for sloppiness. I can come back in a hour or two 
    after its dried and remove the wash that has escaped the panel lines
    quite easily.
    
    Hope that helps if you have any questions let me know.
    
    I've only seen and read about Mr. Surfacer in Hobby Japan but have never 
    had the opportunity to use it, sorry...
    
    -Tom
    
    >To: ttt@apc.net
    >Subject: Need some painting advices
    >Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1970 08:00:00 +0000
    >
    >Hi,
    >
    <snip>
    >
    >1. I saw on the cover box of the Gundam models and found that the models
    >is painted very very nice. Well, I'm able to paint the models but
    >however, I can't, even once succeed in painting the black fine lines of
    >the model. This is so difficult and often spoils the model. I tried
    >using a very fine brush but the lines are so thin, less than a
    >millimetre, when I paint it, it just smurge out of the lines. I can't
    >make a perfect black straight lines in the groove of the model. May I
    >know from you how this can be done.
    >
    <snip>
    
  • Thinning/mixing ratios
    I have received several emails asking about how much I thin or dilute the paint for airbrushing. I typically start the ration at 1:1 (paint:thinner), then work from there.

  • If you paint your kits don't forget to sand off a little of the edges Joint that surround the joint areas, otherwise you'll get paint scraped off as soon as you start posing your kits. The is especially true for gundam type kits that have elbow and knee joints.




  • When building snap-together kits, specifically the Bandai Gundam kits, remove or trim down the pegs that hold the model pieces together. If you are securing the model pieces with glue these pegs are not neccessary and often create a gap between the two pieces you are connecting.

  • Nevin has done a great job explaining basic modeling techniques.
    Why re-write what he has already done? :)
    * Nevolution -- Model Making

  • * The Model Citizen has some really great information on Battle Damage and Weathering with Pastels. Check out his * Sprue University section for details.

  • * rec.models.scale FAQ   The huge (it's nicely arranged over several pages) and information packed FAQ from the rec.mode.scale newsgroup. Notable sections include: Resin Kits - part 12, weathering tips - part 15, and painting tips - part 17. Great information for beginning modelers and those that are looking for some new tips.

  • Stripping Chrome Plate/Coating
    Chlorine bleach. Soak the parts in a diluted bleach solution and the chrome will just disintegrate. Use Chlorine based bleach and soak the offending parts for about 1-2 hours. The has always worked for me. Make sure to do this in a well ventilated area.

  • Getting rid of a bad paint job - Stripping Acrylic Paint
    Easy-off Oven Cleaner. Spray the model with oven cleaner, let it site for a bit, then scrub away with an old tooth brush. Make sure to do this in a well ventilated area and wear gloves, the first time I did this I didn't wear any protection and boy my hands got irritated and itchy!

* link will open in new window


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